Biking like the Dutch

Today started off simply enough.  We had to get up and get out of the hostel. I'd looked up online about our bike trip for the day, and everyone assured it was easy.  That the routes were simply numbered and simple to follow.  Grab some sandwiches on our way to the train station so we could have lunch as we went.  But that's about where the simplicity ended.  

We checked the boards for the train to Rotterdam and found it, went and waited (we had 15 minutes), and then in the last 5 minutes they announced it had changed platforms.  So we hustle from 4a to 15b.  Luckily, we asked an official on the platform, because it turns out that was the express train and it cost extra for us to ride it.  He kindly told us the train we wanted was at 2a, and that it left in 3 minutes.  So we hustled as fast as we could and barely got to our seats before the train started moving.  

Once we got to Rotterdam, we found a place that rented bikes.  He gave us a ferry schedule to get to Kinderdijk, but told us to get the biking route, we needed to go to the information center below.  I went in while Jen waited with the bikes, and she told me the roads to go on, but she didn't have any maps for me.  So with a couple street names, and a single town in the middle, we set off.  We found the fountain, headed for the river, and thats where things went wonky on us.  

We turned one block too soon, and couldn't find the one street name I knew for us to be on.  So we stopped at a little lunch stand and asked for help.  The guy in the booth had no idea, but his two patrons jumped in, pulling out a smart phone, trying to help.  Unfortunately , they had no idea what they were doing, but they did give me a general idea of where we needed to go: one more block up.  So we set off that direction, and the road was going to force us to cross a bridge, which I didn't think we wanted to do yet.  So we turned the other direction to look for a street name.  Nothing.  We stopped and asked for more directions, and were told the street we wanted was directly across a different bridge (the one on the street we started on, which sounded more correct,) and that there would be signs leading us on as soon as we got there.  

So we huffed up the only not flight places in the Netherlands, a bridge.  Crossed over, and there was a sign pointing us for a street I recognized in one way, then in a completely different one!  We followed one direction and then stopped to ask someone else.  She told us she didn't know the road, but that there was a ferry that would take us there directly if we went over this bridge right next to us, and then crossed over the red bridge, the one we had originally thought was wrong.  Then a man pipes up behind her who had been getting out of his car.  They start rapidly conversing in Dutch, and the words I gather about location and the hand gestures, I could see they greatly disagreed on how to get there.  

We tried anyway.  No luck.  We did manage to tip over our bikes though while adjusting our packs.  So back over the bridge we went.  Then we saw a sign for the ferry on the pack the bicycle renter gave us.  So we followed that.  Back up and over the big initial bridge hill.  As we near the bottom, I see there is no way for me to follow the car signs in a far lane to get to the ferry.  Then I see it right in front of me.  A sign saying Kinderdijk this way.  At an intersection we had passed through 3 times, but had always been facing the wrong direction to see the sign.  Along with a map with a couple of the numbered routes, though of course not ours, and we never saw another map the entire time explaining the numbered routes.  I could see how it would be orderly if you knew which numbers to travel!

So on our way we go again.  an hour and a half into the ride that was supposed to take an hour each way.  To top it off, everyone we ask starts off with "that's really far!"  Really?  It's 15k, thats only like 9.5 miles.  And here I thought these people biked everywhere!  So we pedal, pedal, pedal.  Jen doing well since she informs me part way in that she hasn't been on a bike since the last time with me...(that was 6 years ago).  And here she was trying to convince me she would be able to bike across the Netherlands with her pack on her back!  Luckily for her I couldn't find a bike place to rent in one city and return in another...

So the route takes us to the point with that red bridge that we originally thought was wrong.  Again.  But then I realize there is a path that goes underneath the end of the bridge rather than across it.  And it is labeled with our middle city!  So we hustle on down, and follow the path.  And second guess ourselves twice, and end up back on that path again, luckily correctly. 

We get to the town of Krimpen aan den Ijssel and there are no more signs.  So we figure we should find an information center and start biking through the town.  Nothing.  Ask directions, they don't match with what we've seen, and it starts to rain.  So we back track to the tunnel a block back to take cover, and an older gentleman is there too.  Running out of options I ask him, and what luck!  He knows what road to the next little town where the ferry that takes us across the river and then we are there!  We couldn't thank him enough.  

And off we go again.  Biking across the dijk, like he said, passing all the farms. There was even a llama farm!  Followed by a bunch of ducks.  All I could think was llama, llama, duck!  My web video friends should get that.  If not, ask Anne Peasley and she'll happily fill you in. 

 We get into town and the road is closed and we are unsure if we can pass it on our bikes or not.  A gentleman on a bike says he's not sure either and hollers down to the workers who happily wave us in.    As we bike the road we chatted a little.  He wanted to know about American politics, a subject I approached with extreme caution and neutrality.   But he obviously enjoyed it and pointed us down the road to the ferry.  We get there, get funneled straight across and Boom!  We're in Kinderdijk, home of the best preserved Dutch windmills.  And then we are biking amongst them and it is wonderful.  We even got a ticket to go up inside one and explore.  But it was getting late and we needed to catch a train to Brussels so we could catch one to Brugge.  That's 3.5 hours of travel left ahead!

The windmill attendant shows points us towards the town of Alblasserdam which is closest to us, and has the fastest ferry.  So we head out across the windmill dijk again and travel the 5k to the town.  After asking directions again in this town, the most helpful was a 12 year old boy who knew exactly where to point us, we found the ferry and waited for the one we wanted.  

Right as the ferry lands in Rotterdam 45 minutes later, it starts to sprinkle.  So we take Jen's poncho and wrap up her bags, I situate mine so my bag with my electronics is most covered and we head out into a very mild drizzle.  We take one wrong turn, quickly get back on track, and the flood gates open.  It downpoured on us!  I knew there was no way my bottom bad would stay dry, so I shortened it's strap as much as I could and put it under my coat in front of me.  I figured the only things that might not dry out right are my ipad and my camera and that's all I cared about keeping dry.  But when I pedaled, my coat lifted and my bag was still getting wet.  And Jen's glasses were so wet she couldn't see. At this point we stopped in a slightly covered place and discussed what to do.  We were both sopping, and we were so close to the train station.  The choice made was to suck it up and walk the bikes.  We were already as wet as we would get and Jen was moving slowly enough she could navigate while I could keep my bag dry (well, as dry as it still was...). 

Finally we get back to the bike rental and unload.  I check my devices and everything made it out okay, and when we step back outside, the rain is gone.  Of course.  When we comment on this one of the bike attendants starts singing  "I can see clearly now the rain is gone..." as he passed us.  All we could do was look at each other and laugh.  Jen then pointed out how much mascara I had on my face.  Whoops!  And who really knows how far we traveled.  Jen's pedometer was keeping each pedal she did as steps, so I'll have to ask her what it says we did.  Unfortunately I managed to loose mine on a hike in Iceland, so we are dependent on hers now.  That will teach me to climb on rocks with stuff hanging off my belt line.

So starving (Jen super thirsty), we grab some sustenance in the train station. since we haven't eaten in over 8 hours now,  and double check that the train we are about to get on is good for our Eurorail pass, we board for Brussels at 7:I put down on our hostel booking in Bruges that we would try to be there by 5.  Another whoops!  At least that's never been a problem for me in the past though.  As long as you pay for the night they usually don't have an issue with this, and luckily this held true, despite the fact that we checked in a11:45.  Oh well, it is what it is.  

Overall, I think we had a wonderful adventure and had a lot of fun, but then again, I slightly enjoy getting lost like that.  Jen looked like I'd put her through the ringer at the end.  I think she has the best idea of what she signed up for in traveling with me now.  Hopefully a good night's sleep puts her to rights again, since this is going to be a fast paced train day to get down to Stuttgart, Germany and meet up with the Douglas' and friends.

The summary of this leg of the trip?  Love the Dutch, they are very friendly and wish to be helpful.  But this also means that if they don't necessarily know, they will try their best to know instead of telling you that they don't know, and this is not good in direction giving.  They also apparently only bike in their own cities, and consider crossing into others to be "really far" which it would not have been if we hadn't got lost.  Also, always bring plastic lining for your electronics in case of emergencies.  Well, Belgium, it's your turn.  Throw your best at us!  You have a couple hours of our undivided attention before we hit Germany.  (sorry Luxembourg, I think you might be out...)

The Amsterdam Experience

Today involved a lot of walking and exploring.  We slept in a bit this morning, but that turned out all right.  Our hostel served breakfast, but it looked a little blah so I just went for the coffee.  Once we were both up and going and had a general game plan for the day, we took off.

First we decided to see the Red Light District.  But we wandered some different streets than before and got off on our blocks.  This led to finding the coolest block ever with giant saxophones, pianos, and dancing men hanging from the buildings in 3-D.  We meandered the different blocks some more and boom, there was the flower market!  Not only was this beautiful and colorful, but the postcards in the stores opposite were easily some of the raunchiest I have ever seen.  We couldn't even think of anyone we could send one to in humor without the horror of "what if someone else sees it" kicking in.  I know I wouldn't want my anyone, even my mailman, to see me getting a card like those.

After getting a shocked laugh out of us we found the canal to take us into the Red Light District.  We came in by way of their Chinatown, and then quickly cut over.  I couldn't believe how young some of the kids were walking down the street with their parents here, like it was nothing.  To be honest though, it was just a kind of sad.  I can't imagine just sitting in a window like that all day, much less than to be sitting there selling yourself.  What a life...  Jen had similar thoughts to me, so after a quick lap through, we aimed to happier parts of town.  We walked past all the big monuments and slowly made out way towards Amsterdam Centraal.  I was trying to go in every Starbucks to find cards for my Starbucks friends.  Unfortunately Amsterdam keeps them out of reach and requires $5 be put on them.  So sorry Kristin and Chris, nothing from Amsterdam for you!  I'll try the next city.

We grabbed a couple sandwiches, and (you may want to skip this part mom) headed south again, looking for Abraxas.  Of course you have to go to a coffeeshop while in Amsterdam.  The guy who worked there was very nice and helpful in making our selection.  It was off to the side in a well-kept alley in the main part of town, and we enjoyed a little time there before we decided there were things to be done still!  So out we went again, exploring new routes and deciding on postcards.

Near our hostel was the diamond museum, which said free, so we wandered in.  A museum that is actually free in Amsterdam!?  Turns out it was a teaser taste of the diamonds, and not the real exhibit that was free.  Should have known.  We did get to see people cutting diamonds though, which was interesting and intense work.  They are litterally sanded down on a grinder with diamond dust one facet at a time.  Talk about focus!  We got to see replicas of some famous diamonds too, and then they funneled us through the selling area of the stores.  Of course they did.  After being shuffled past things I could only dream of affording, we went through the CZ cases, many of which looked very familiar to what we carry at FK.  Then  finally to the museum, where they wanted 10 euro to get in.  Still too much for this stingy gal!

After getting back to our hostel, we checked on the address to the restaurant we wanted and set back out again.  Hap Hmm was amazing.  Just to the east of Vondelpark, it serves traditional Dutch food, which is apparently just up my alley in all ways. My meal consisted of perfectly cooked beef in a gravy, with fried potatos and fried (carmelized) onion with a stroganoff sauce.  So good!  Jen just laughed at how fast I consumed it, though se said her "grandmothers meatball" was also fantastic.  And it was cheaper than almost everywhere else we have seen in the city!  If we had more time we also wanted to try De Keuken van 1870 which looked equally as good, just further from the hostel.

All in all it was quite a delightul day!  Tomorrow we go in search of windmills, and then on to Belgium!

waterfalls, waterfalls, and then some canals.

So yesterday, Jen and I decided to rent the car for one more day.  We figured we could cover much more ground this way, and boy were we right!  Setting off at about 10am, south down the HW1, looking for the two waterfalls which had eluded us the day before.  After about an hour and a half, mountains began to appear again, and one had a ribbon of white down its side.  Starting to get excited, we pressed onward to see an incredible waterfall experience.  Seljalandsfoss was not only large and stunning, but it also contains a pathway were you can walk behind the falls, and a trail to the base of the pool from behind.  Despite the chill to the air, the was no lack of romping around.  Finally we decided we should press onward.

The next fall was maybe 20 minutes away.  Skogafoss is considered to be Iceland's most incredible waterfall, and I was not disappointed.  With a black sand beach around its base, we were able to creep very close to the bottom, only stopping because we were drenched from the spray.  Then, as we were walking back to the car, we realized there was a path to the top.  So of course we decided it was time to head up!  Stopping at a lookout point 3/4 up, a really nice man from Alberta offered to take my picture.  We got talking and he gave us his card to look up the photos later.  It's amazing how many wonderful people you meet while traveling.  After deciding my life wasn't worth climbing around a rickety point for a better photo, we continued to the top where we could look down over the falls from above.  I definitely prefered the midpoint better for the view though.

We climbed down at about the same time as Richard, our new friend from Canada.  He and his wife told us about a couple of wonderful places, we may have otherwise missed.  Derholeay was a little road out of nowhere which provided excellent views of the black sand beaches.  While incredibly windy, it was worth the cold.  I could even lean into the wind and it would hold me upright at times.  Then we drove up higher to the lighthouse (another turn we would have missed if not for them), and had an even better view of the cliffs hollowed out by the sea.  It was a steep road for our little car, but we made it safely by taking our time (and thanking the gravel insurance we had paid for).

Then, still not quite done with our day, we continued for a short stint through Vik, and then to the ferry point for Vestmannaeyjar islands.  Plus stopping along the way for view points of the glaciers Myrdalsjokull and Eyjafjallajokull.  I still can't pronounce either of those despite my many attempts to learn.  All in all it was a pretty incredible day trip.

Once we got back to the hostel and dropped off the car, we decided it was time to go get some dinner.  We decided on the Islandia Barinn (the Icelandic Bar) because we heard they had reindeer and that it was delicious.  The conclusion?  Yes, rudolph tastes wonderful.  I encourage trying it if you get the chance.  The foal is still my favorite though.  Then we finished off with desert and coffee at Cafe Paris before going to pack our stuff.  The shuttle was coming to pick us up at 4:30 in the morning, and it was already quite late.

Somehow we got our stuff together, and eventually got some (very little) sleep before waking up to head out again.  I think we both slept most of the trip to Amsterdam, though I was awake when we flew directly over Edinburgh.  Sadly, it was too cloudy to see the city, so I wasn't able to wave to my friends below.

We quickly learned that the train from the airport to the city was valid on our Eurorail passes, so we are officially verified and running on that front now.  We got to our hostel in a lovely part of the city. Close to all the museums, but off the main drag so it is quiet and cosy.  We only stopped in long enough to ditch our bags though, before turning back around.  We walked all over the city.  While looking for the Anne Frank House, we found a cheese museum (free, score!) that had lots of demos.  They had a farm cheese that was mixed with truffle.  To quote my mom, yummo!

Shortly after this we found the Anne Frank house and stopped to pay respects to this memorial.  We didn't go in as we can't afford the costs of museums here, but we took some time from outside before continuing on our way.

Following the canals provided delightful people watching and scenery gazing.  We found a nice little restaurant and were hit by the extreme difference in price from Iceland.  What a pleasant shock when we got the bill!

Were only here the two nights, so we will have to make the most of tomorrow.  Our agenda at this point is the Red Light District, renting bikes, and anything else that catches our eye along the way!

Land of Fire and Ice

I have officially made it back to Iceland once again, and it is as wonderful (and expensive) as I remembered.  Jen and I landed yesterday at 7 am, after only sleeping about an hour on the flight.  Needless to say we were rather tired.  But I have learned the hazards of jet lag, and we forced our selves to stay awake for the first day.  So we dropped our bags off at the hostel, and set off to explore!

First we went by the metal viking ship on the shoreline.  A classic point in Reykjavik, especially since it is across the street from our hostel.  Then we headed on into town.  We wandered a little bit, bought some postcards, had some breakfast, then aimed up for the church, Hallgrimskirkja.  Somehow I have never been into this church before, even though it is one of the focal points in town. Not really sure how I managed that.  But it had the most amazing organ inside.  Absolutely huge, and the organist was in and rehearsing while we were there.  Slowly we headed back to the hostel from here and settled in a bit, making ourselves stay up as late as we could before going to bed.  

And this morning we woke up jetlag free! So we walked down to the car rental and picked one out before hitting the road.  We  made our own version of the Golden Circle, by going to Thingvellar National Park, Geysir, and Gulfoss falls.  All three were amazing, though Gulfoss remains my favorite.  It was fun to see it raging too, since last time I was here it was frozen solid.  At Geysir, we met a guy who went to the U of O and has a cabin at Priest Lake.  We chatted for awhile, and learned that he was there working as a photographer for a cruise line.  He had spent the last four months aroudn the Baltic Seas, and had just come from the Shetland and Faroe islands.  Next week he will be in the Caribbean.  

After finishing our circle, we headed south to try and find Selfoss, which it turns out is not a waterfall like I thought.  So instead we continued on to Stokkseyri, which I've wanted to see since I've loved the song "Stokkseyri" by Jonsi and Alex.  It was raining a constant drizzle here, but we still got out to see the unique black sand beaches.  They were very neat, even if the tide was really far out.  

Once we got back, we decided to see the Harpa music hall and then get some dinner.  The Harpa was even more amazing than I thought it would be!  Especially once we realized the ceiling was a continuation of the hexagonal cuts, only in mirrors.  The whole place was like a giant glass honeycomb.  And just to top it off, the music coming from the ground floor was The Planets, by  Holst.  Couldn't have asked for a better experience there.  

Then Jen and I went to the Tapas Barinn for dinner.  We went here because we could get smaller serving (cheaper) and it was a popular choice for the city.  The menu may have also swayed us a bit.  We tried the minke whale, smoked puffin, and Icelandic foal, as well as each ordering  a potato with salad.  We became slightly concerned to what the portions would be like, when our waiter asked us if we just weren't very hungry then tonight.  Then he brought us the bread and tapade dish, which we didn't order with a smile.  We decided we were hungry enough that we didn't really care if he charged us for that too or not.  And it was delicious.  Then came our courses.  The foal was delicious!  Rather tough, but great flavor.  The puffin?  Smoked raw.  That was an odd experience to eat what seemed like raw bird.  And the flavor was odd.  We didn't care for it much, so you puffins are safe from us!  Then came the whale.  It was pretty good, though not memorable until we put the sauce on it.  Made a complete difference!  

After we finished up, our waiter tried to convince us to get desert.  We told him we were just too full!  Then we laughed a little over an accidental, "if you now what I mean joke" and just had an overall good time chatting with him, and laughing that what we really need was more water, not more food.  He then proceeded to run off and return to present us more water with a grand flourish.  He then wouldn't let me pay yet, telling me to wait, and came back with a dessert for us, and insisted that we try it.  It was so delicious!  Even though we were both rather full, we quickly cleaned the plate of the soft cheese dessert that was drizzled in a citrus sauce when a crisp bottom.  To top it off, when he brought the bill, we hadn't been charged for it or the bread.  What a delightly meal it had turned out to be, and we tipped as well as we could, since we had little ISK on us at that time.  

Tomorrow we are thinking we may keep the car for one more day, and try to see a couple more waterfalls and head to the Blue Lagoon.  We'll see what we end up doing in the end though!